Elle takes a look at Aaron De Mey, Lancôme's Artistic Director, who clearly leads by his own artistic creativity - remember the first item he rolled out for Lancôme: the limited edition Piha black lipgloss. Here, an excerpt from Elle giving us a peek into De Mey's inner sanctum.
“I like extremes, surprises, and opposites,” says Aaron De Mey. Spend an hour with him and you’re likely to leave with lip-shine on your eyelids and eye shadow on your cheeks. “Studying art gave me a great understanding of color and texture,” De Mey says. “My technique is all about emphasizing individuality and confidence.”
How can I use black lip gloss and not look goth?
I layer it over red lipstick to give depth to the mouth—the sheerer the lipstick, the subtler the effect. I apply gloss, in any shade, only in the center of the lips—this gives the effect of a full, sexy pout. You can use clear or black gloss on your eyelids, too.
How so?
Marlene Dietrich used to make her own smoky, glossy eye shadow by burning a cork and then mixing it with Vaseline. You can achieve a similar effect by patting a dab of lip gloss into the center of your lid—it gives an incredible shine and texture that you can’t get with an eye product. Just try not to apply it to the outer corner of the eye, as this might make mascara travel.
I’ve also seen you use lipstick and gloss as blush; is that something a non-pro should try?
Of course! A great way to choose the right shade is to match the natural color of the inside of your lower lip. Dab a small amount onto the apples of your cheeks, and use your fingers to blend it high on the cheekbones. I use Lancôme liquid lipstick: Its sheen creates a youthful and glowing appearance.
What else can sculpt the face?
You want to highlight, lift, and create definition. Use a bronzer or blush in a shade that complements your skin tone, and gently blend it into the natural shadows of your face—under your cheekbones and chin and on your temples. Remember not to be too heavy-handed. Always start with a small amount of product and build from there—better too little than too much.
How can irreverence be incorporated into everyday makeup?
Makeup should be individual and expressive. I want women to wear any color or texture they want, no matter what the time of day or occasion, like wearing powerful red lipstick to the supermarket or a black punky liquid eyeliner at 10 a.m.
But liquid eyeliner is hard to master at any time of day.
Use a small angled brush, like the one you use on your brows, because it gives you more freedom than the one in the tube. Just make sure that the outer ends sweep upward, which gives a lifting effect to the eye. I also encourage experimenting with different colors like blue, green, or pink. Have some fun.
How can fuchsia eye shadow be wearable?
Line the upper and lower lids with a black pencil, and smudge it into the lashes using an eye shadow brush—this balances out the pink and keeps the look flattering and chic. Blend the fuchsia shadow into the natural contour of your lid, building it so that it’s more intense in the crease. Apply a lot of black mascara, and then use pale pink shadow to highlight the top of the brow bone.
DE MEY'S PRODUCTS DU JOUR
Lancôme Pink Irreverence Color Design Eyeshadow Quad
De Mey uses the palette “to create a contoured classic eye or just to impart a delicate pink wash of color to the lids.”
Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation
He favors this foundation because “it’s a luxurious and full-coverage base that gives a flawless finish.”
Lancôme La Laque Fever Liquid Lipstick
De Mey loves because “alone or with a gloss, it’s a bright, vibrant, amazing color that makesa statement.”
Muji Cotton Swabs
“They’re a must for cleaning up smudges and for perfecting the shape of eye makeup,” says De May.
Mustela Hydra-Stick
This is another one of De Mey's favorites because “it’s protective, calming, and perfect for applying under lipstick. It can also be used on the cheekbones and the center of the nose to create a dewy, highlighted sheen.”
click to enlarge image
Pink Irreverence
Spring 2009 Color Collection by Aaron De Mey
Limited Edition
De Mey takes inspiration from irreverent French heroines Madame Bovary, Sylvie Fleurie, Marie Curie and Brigitte Bardot. Just like the colors in the collection, these women have marked their eras with panache and embody the essence of pure and daring femininity.
Twisting the traditional codes of elegance, Aaron has created an impertinent color statement that pairs Spring pinks against rebellious blacks and potent shine against pure matte textures. The pinks are reminiscent of Lancôme’s iconic rose, while the deep black shades are evocative of the Piha volcanic black beaches of Aaron’s native homeland of New Zealand. Products are meant to be layered to create an array of stunning looks.
La Laque Fever Full Color Lipshine
Passionate about painting, Aaron De Mey wanted to recreate the purity of lacquer color in a lip product. Densely pixilated pearls combine with polymers to give multi-dimensional shine that lasts for six hours. The ultra-modern, silver streamlined packaging conveys all the color and shine contained within. Available in four daring, non-fading shades: Electric Pink, Optical Rose, Lucent Nude and Iridescent. $26.00
Color Design Eyeshadow Quad
Two new eye shadow palettes express the color statement and the free, irreverent spirit of Aaron’s spring collection. Use the black sparkling shade in the Irreverent Madame palette to structure the eye. Layer and play with the remaining matte pink shades to bring the look up or down. $42.00
Laque Liner
This eyeliner’s precise brush makes lining and defining easy and fun. The Pure Black shade is perfect for creating a deep intense look, while Pure Sparkle’s clear, shimmery formula instantly enlightens eyes. $25.00
Color Design Illuminator for Eyes and Face
This creamy, cooling gel can be used alone or blended over another color to highlight and brighten the eye area. Apply the light texture over your eyelid and up to the brow bone or experiment by bringing it from the eye down to the cheekbone to create a beautiful aura that lights up the face. Available in two shades: High Expectations and Hard to Get. $20.00
Color Fever Gloss in Piha Black
Back by popular demand, Piha Black adds an irreverent twist to the spring collection with its deep black and sparkly, volcanic beach inspired color. Used as a topcoat, the gloss brings a subtle dark intensity and brightness to other lip shades. Use alone for an edgier look. $25.00
Le Vernis Nail Polish
Take your nails to the extreme. For a dark sultry look, accessorize your nails with Piha Black, the same gorgeous, sparkly black shade found in the Color Fever Gloss. Lighten things up with Sassiness, a pink shade that, according to Aaron, “is the ultimate color of spring.” $18.00
Products in the Lancôme Pink Irreverance Spring 2009 collection are available online at
lancome-usa.com. The collection is set to be at beauty counters in February.
excerpt on De Mey: elle.com
